
It’s that time again. Time to spin the wheel and see which restaurants try will encourage new business, and which ones will drive away future clientèle.
Check out the fun Unofficial Guide to all things Restaurant Week at BostonChefs.com. The official guide can be found at BostonUSA.com.
When:
Sunday, March 9 through Friday, March 14, 2008
Sunday, March 16 through Friday, March 21, 2008
Cost:
Three-course Prix-fixe Lunch Menu: $20.08
Three-course Prix-fixe Dinner Menu: $33.08
From my experience, restaurants have dealt with Restaurant Week in three ways:
- Scale down regular menu item portion size, operate at cost (or a loss), and hope to make it up in future business:
Restaurants that do this are as rare as that ivory-billed woodpecker, but when you do find a restaurant that does reflect its usual service during Restaurant Week, it builds great customer loyalty for the present and future. See my previous Restaurant Week reports on Sorellina, Ruth’s Chris. Also Radius, Meritage, and Spire (now KO Prime) were good examples.
- Have a new menu unrelated to anything the restaurant usually does, usually involving some skirt steak dish and grade Q ingredients out of the compost heap:
This is, alas, the common trend in restaurant week. If you go to Restaurant Week, especially for dinner, chances are that this is what you get. Throw some skirt steak on the plate, add some “specials” made from leftovers ingredients from the real service, and there’s your Restaurant Week menu. These places usually come with snobby service (see my report on the Federalist, fortunately now Mooo) because the attitude is to dumb everything down for the plebs. Admittedly the servers are working for a fraction of the tips they usually get, but restaurant owners should realize this and act accordingly to make sure people aren’t forever turned off from their business.
- Don’t have it at all:
I don’t like this, but at least I understand it. If you can’t do something right, don’t do it at all. I was talking to someone from a major Boston restaurant, and they told me that try as they might, they just couldn’t make the numbers crunch for both their kitchen and their staff. So rather than put out sub-par food, they just dispensed with Restaurant Week altogether.
Overall, I feel that Restaurant Week is an opportunity for Chefs to share their art with a larger audience, so in an ideal world, all the Boston restaurants would be open serving their regular fare with impeccable service. But until this world indeed becomes ideal, and every man, woman, and child can laze under groves bacon trees clustered around pristine ice wine lagoons, well just have to enjoy Restaurant Week as best we can.
But chefs could also view this as a challenge worthy of every fledgling contestant of Top Chef: create a great meal indicative of the quality and ethos of your restaurant on a budget. Of the restaurants I’ve been to for Restaurant Week, No. 9 Park accomplished this task the best. So it can be done, and done well.
With that all said, it’s time to rack up the reservations, loosen the belt a few notches, and prepare to dig in. Happy eating!