
Originally, my third and final destination for Boston Restaurant Week, Summer 2007 was going to be Excelsior. The menu seemed creative and by all accounts tasted great too. Unfortunately, they decided to change their menu for the second week to haddock and schnitzel, which didn’t seem nearly as exciting as the first week’s offerings. So my family and I decided to give Excelsior the pass, and look for something else.
So we went online and poked through the various menus to try to find something that looked interesting, which was easier said than done. It’s surprising how many restaurants still serve cod and skirt steak for restaurant week. Anyhow, one of the more interesting menus we found was lunch at Aquitaine, which is on Tremont Street in the South End. We were not disappointed.
A note to customers: Make sure you know which 6′+ tall brawny bald white guy waiter is yours. There are two in this restaurant and we got confused once. One speaks with a thick French accent and the other does not. Confusions aside, the service we had was excellent, and our waiter (the accented one) was more than happy to provide my father with the 10000 cups he required and was very helpful, friendly, and welcoming.

For starters we had the Crunchy Ipswich clams, lemon zest, garlic confit and baby tomatoes. These were some of the best fried clams I’ve ever had. The clams were lightly floured and fried in such away that they were crisp, yet not soaking in fat. I think the reason for this is that they they weren’t covered in a thick batter, so the oil from the frying couldn’t seep in. We originally balked at trying this dish–we live in New England, a land where fried clams flow like wine–but it was well worth the order.

The other starter I tried was the Steak tartare, petite salade, white truffle oil and gaufrettes. As those of use who watched the first season of Top Chef and listened to Stephen know, gaufrette is the French word for potato chip. And these were some fine gaufrettes at that. They were thin, crisp, and salty. The tartare was soft and slightly sweet, but lacked punch and texture by itself. Eating it with the gaufrettes and the truffle oil gave it just the flavor and texture the tartare needed, and made it a really nice way to start a meal.

The highlight of the meal, and the winner of the Most Creative Restaurant Week Dish, 2007 award was the Crepes stuffed with house-cured salmon, bacon, pommes purée and green beans with petite salade. The crepe was delicate, pillowy, and a perfect container for the treasure inside. It was as if the softness of the salmon, the crispness of the bacon, the mellowness of the pommes purée were sent rocketing through space and crashed headlong into the green beans resulting in a flavor and texture explosion.

Opening up the crepe reveals the beautiful color inside. This was a truly clever dish, and the mark of a creative chef.

While not as complex, the House-smoked beef brisket sandwich, hazelnut-plum mustard with meat juices and pommes frites was no less artfully executed and delicious than its crepe cousin. This was just a simple sandwich executed very well. The bread was thick, sweet, and had enough porousness to act as the sponge for the juices of the brisket. I’m coming back for lunch for this one.

Finally for desert, we had the Brulée figs with home-made fromage blanc and spiced almond Florentine. The figs were fresh and had a nice little brulée crust of sugar on top, with powdered sugar on top of that. These were nice and fresh, but I have to say the peach tart at the next table looked awesome.
Overall, Aquitaine delivered in spades. It had a creative restaurant week menu (most dishes weren’t on the regular menu) that highlighted the ability of the restaurant to deliver a great meal with simple ingredients prepared well. For this lunch, Aquitaine had a particularly poor restaurant week ratio of about .7 (RWVM 1.3). But in looking at the regular lunch menu, I realized that this is because you get such a good value there anyways. The sandwiches go for about 10 bucks each, so lunch at Aquitaine can be a very manageable and a delicious way to pass the time. I believe they’re extending their restaurant week menu, so make sure to check it out!